French coffee culture:
Coffee culture is part of the very fabric of French society. From the market traders sipping a strong espresso in a café to kick-start their day to a meal-ending petit noir at the swankiest upmarket restaurant, consumption of the humble ground bean is not so much a tradition as an obligation.
Nowhere in the world is better known for its café society than France, where a café is a meeting place, a social hub and a place to unwind and exchange gossip. From the biggest cities to the smallest villages, the local café is the place where the French get their caffeine fix, sometimes poring over a simple cup for hours. It is the essence of a slow, unhurried attitude to modern life.
When a multi-national chain decided to launch in Paris over five years ago there was initially uproar that the French heritage was somehow under attack. Another threat came from the smoking ban, which has certainly seen customer numbers dwindle and sadly led to the demise of some neighbourhood and village cafés.
For those who do support their local place of coffee worship, the type of drink consumed is often dictated by the time of day. For breakfast you can expect to cradle a frothy café au lait with your croissant or your bread and jam, while at the end of a simple menu du jour lunch you might want to knock back a steaming ‘café’ – a simple shot of perfectly French coffee in a tiny cup.
For more on the history of coffee and its impact in France, visit our friends at Le Café Shop
www.lecafeshop.co.uk
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Five of the best cafés
Everyone has their favourite café when they go on holiday to France – for many, a convivial welcome and a friendly-faced waiter makes all the difference to your break. Here we present our selection of some of the most famous and friendly cafés.
1. Les Deux Magots, Paris
Perhaps the most celebrated café in the whole of France, mainly because of its association with the literary crowd – Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre were famously regular customers – this bustling neighbourhood café-restaurant in St Germain des Prés is now run by the great-great granddaughter of the chap who bought it in 1914, Auguste Boulay.
2. Café de la Paix, La Rochelle
With its high ceiling, mirror-clad walls and ornate decorations (not to mention its sumptuous toilettes), this grand old café sits on the corner of La Rochelle’s big Place de Verdun. It’s the perfect place to pause for reflection after a busy morning’s exploration this lovely port town, and to enjoy a laid back drink presented with style and elegance.
3. Le Caféotheque, Paris
Taking coffee – its blends and preparation – very seriously doesn’t mean it can be enjoyable too, as this mecca for Parisian coffee lovers proves. Sourcing beans from 68 countries including Peru, Malawi and Nicaragua, Le Caféotheque in the 4th arrondissement is a cosy sanctuary for sippers, where high quality coffees lubricate the conversation between customers – regular and newbies alike – and the knowledgeable baristas.
4. Café des 2 Moulins, Paris
Since its star turn in the 2001 hit film Amélie – Audrey Tautou’s character worked here as a waitress – this Montmartre café has enjoyed a considerable upturn in fortunes. It’s the perfect bustling neighbourhood café, has retained most of its 1950s fixtures, fitting and décor and provides a welcome addition to Montmartre’s already bulging list of must-see addresses. It also has a classic bistro-style menu including veal escalopes in cream sauce.
5. La Claire Fontaine, Nice
The vibrant Riviera city of Nice has countless cafés to choose from. All around the lively Cours Saleya are huddled groups of tables where you can join market traders popping in for a quick bit of caffeine fuel or a bite to eat. For a quieter cup of coffee with nothing but the sound of trickling fountain for company, head into the Old Town to the big, and admittedly fairly touristy La Claire Fontaine in Place Rosetti. It might get busy at times but it gives good atmosphere!